Understeer
When the front tires have less traction than the rears do, the car tends to “push” or plow relatively straight ahead, rather than turning as much as you’d like. That’s understeer. The car has not steered as much as you’d like, so it is understeering.
Understeer is a function of car’s inherent dynamics, a lack of weight transfer to the front wheels, and/or too much entry speed.
Therefore, the front tires don’t have enough traction to change the direction of the car as much as you’d like.
Controlling Understeer
No matter what, look where you want to go
Transfer weight to the front tires by easing your foot off the throttle. If you're not accelerating, it would make sense to brake to transfer weight forward, wouldn't it? That can work sometimes, but if the front tires are already beyond their limit of traction, then asking them to do some braking may actually make things worse. If you do brake, it needs to be very gentle and light.
Be patient
Sometimes you just need to wait for the weight transfer from easing off the throttle to take effect, and for the car to have slowed enough for the front tires to grip the road enough to turn the car the way you want.
Straighten the steering slightly
Yes, right when you feel you're going to plow off the edge of the road, you need to actually straighten the wheel and steer that way — just a little. See, the front tires are at an angle where they can't grip the track — they're turned too much for the amount of traction they have. So, the best thing to do is to unwind the steering just a little, to bring the front tires back to an angle that allows them to grip the road. This takes discipline and practice, because it goes against your sense of self-preservation.
Summary
Look where you want to go!
Ease up on the throttle.
Unwind the steering wheel very slightly.
Oversteer
When the rear tires have less traction than the front tires do, the rear of the car will slide more, causing the car to turn — or steer — more than you wanted. Therefore, it has oversteered.
Oversteer can be caused by too much weight transfer to the front, too much (or too sudden) application of throttle, or by the car’s inherent dynamics.
If you don’t manage the weight transfer properly, the car will oversteer. Or the combination of suspension setup, aerodynamic downforce balance, and tires can also lead to your car oversteering. It’s important to learn how to identify each one, so you can “fix” the problem (and not something that you think is the problem).
Controlling oversteer
Look and steer where you want to go.
This will cause you to “counter steer,” or “steer into the skid.” Essentially, you want to “open your hands” and unwind the wheel to allow the car to take a larger radius. Where you look is where you’ll steer, so simply look where you want to go and you’ll steer there.
Sometimes, you can transfer weight to the rear tires, giving them more traction, by gently accelerating.
You’ll need to be very smooth with this, though, because too much speed for the traction level of the rear tires is what caused the oversteer in the first place. Accelerating too much, or too aggressively, will increase your speed and make things worse.
If the oversteer is caused by being too hard on the throttle, causing “power oversteer,” gently ease off the throttle.
If you lift too quickly, you’ll transfer more weight to the front, making the oversteer worse. Note that this can only be done in a rear-wheel drive car.
There are times when you want a small amount of oversteer.
For example, in a tight corner (a hairpin turn), you need the car to change direction a lot — you need to get it to turn a lot, or “rotate.” Using weight transfer to the front as you turn into a corner will help the car rotate, or oversteer a little (just enough).
Summary
Look and steer where you want to go — that’s priority one.
Gently and smoothly modulate the throttle (to either
transfer weight to the rear, or reduce the amount of power to the rear wheels).
Slip angle
A tire’s slip angle can be viewed as the difference between the direction the wheel is pointing and the direction the car is heading.
When driving at the limit, there is a certain amount of slip (actually, twist between the tire and the wheel).
Surprisingly, tires generate more traction when there is some amount of slip (see Slip Angle vs. Traction graph).
SLIP ANGLE IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WHEEL DIRECTION & DIRECTION THE CAR IS HEADING
The first graph compares traction/grip to a tire’s slip angle.
As the slip angle increases the tire actually gains traction until it plateaus and then falls off, resulting in sliding and potential loss of control.
The graph below shows 4 different drivers: Driver A spends most of the time driving at less than the limit. Driver D is over-driving the car, spending too much time with the tires beyond their limit (note that this doesn’t necessarily mean spinning or crashing — it can just be too much sliding through corners).
Drivers B & C would have roughly the same speed around a track because they spend the same amount of time in the peak traction zone, but Driver B would be faster over time. Why? They’re putting less wear and tear on the tires.
Driving at the Limit
There’s a lot going on in these illustrations and all are related. So, take time to fully understand what’s going on here.
The track illustration shows a car going through a corner and what is happening with braking, cornering, and accelerating through the turn.
The accompanying Traction Circle shows the amount of traction the tires have and the direction of the force during the turn. Think about how your body is forced forward when you break hard, or how you are tilted to the left when you turn to the right. The same forces are at play on your tires.
Keeping your tires within the circle (maintaining traction) is what driving “the limit” is all about.
Note the relationship, or interplay, between the steering wheel and the throttle and brake pedals. You’re constantly trading off braking for cornering, cornering for braking, acceleration for cornering, and cornering for acceleration.
100% rule
You can only ever use 100% of your tires’ traction, no more. If you want to use 5% for accelerating out of a corner, you can only use 95% still for cornering. In other words, you’re going to have to unwind (straighten) the steering wheel by at least 5% to use that for accelerating.
HOW YOU MANAGE YOUR TIRES BY BLENDING BRAKING, CORNERING AND ACCELERATING IS AT THE CORE OF HIGH-PERFORMANCE DRIVING.
Approaching a corner, you can brake using 100% of the tires’ traction for slowing the car. As you begin to turn the steering wheel, you’ll need to release pressure off the brake pedal.
10% Cornering + 90% Braking
25% Cornering + 75% Braking
50% Cornering + 50% Braking
75% Cornering + 25% Braking
100% Cornering
After cornering at 100%, you’ll want to begin accelerating, and that means reducing cornering: As you apply the throttle, you’ll need to unwind the steering wheel — 75 for cornering, 25 for acceleration; 50 for each; 25 for cornering, 75 for acceleration; finally using 100% for acceleration on the straightaway.
You can only ever get 100% out of your tires, but that can be used for a combination of traction forces.
In reality you’ll often get to full throttle acceleration before you have the steering wheel perfectly straight, because your car often doesn’t have enough power to exceed or even get anywhere near to 100% under acceleration. But if you’ve ever induced “power oversteer” by tromping on the throttle while turning, especially on a slippery surface, you know what using more than 100% is!
This is such a common mistake, that there’s a term for it. “Pinching” the car at the exit of a corner is not unwinding the steering wheel as much, or as soon as you should. It’s not using all the track or lane available to you.
To avoid pinching the car, focus on unwinding the steering wheel as early and quickly as you can, as you feed in the throttle.
Of course, this interaction between the steering wheel and the throttle also applies to the brakes and steering. More on this when we discuss “trail braking.”
String Theory
Imagine having a string attached to the bottom of the steering wheel, and to the top of the gas pedal when it’s fully depressed to the floor — it’s tight. As you turn the steering wheel, the string will pull the top of the gas pedal upward, right?
Once it’s pulled all the way up — zero throttle — the steering wheel is fully turned to use up all the tires’ traction. Then, as you come out of a corner and squeeze on the gas pedal, it’s going to straighten the steering wheel.
The interplay of the throttle and steering wheel are critical when exiting a corner. Step on the throttle too soon (when you still have too much steering angle in), and you’re asking for more than 100% from the tires. Expect to experience a skid, slide, or spin.
Cornering
The race track is the perfect place to practice using your vision and the controls, and merging them together with driving the ideal line, or path, through corners.
The following section on cornering uses terminology and illustrations from the discipline of road racing, but the techniques and philosophy will help you in your everyday high-performance driving.
Reference Points
Every corner can be described by three reference points: Turn-in, Apex, and Exit (or “Track-out”). The simplest instruction is to keep two goals in mind: Straighten the corner out as much as possible, and drive it in such a way that it allows you to begin accelerating early (the speed on the straight after the corner is usually more important than the speed through the turn).
Here’s what the three reference points look like in a hairpin corner.
It also shows how you want to use all the track, entering from the outside edge of the track (at the Turn-in point), to the inside at the Apex, and then back to the outside edge at the Exit.
This also illustrates what is referred to as a “late apex line,” as the apex is beyond the middle of the corner.
Using this line allows you to begin accelerating earlier, and therefore end up with a faster straightaway speed (possibly even for accelerating onto a freeway).
Early vs. Late Turn-in
As you can see from this illustration, if you turn in early, you’ll clip an early apex, and ultimately “run out of track” at the exit.
Your Turn-in point is critical, so having a good reference point for it is key.
ACCELERATE EARLY TO END UP WITH A FASTER STRAIGHTAWAY.
AVOID EARLY TURN-IN SO YOU DON’T RUN OUT OF TRACK.
Ideal line
THE BENEFITS OF A LATE APEX (IDEAL LINE)
It allows later braking, since you’re going to turn in later;
You spend less overall time in the corner, and that means more time spent accelerating;
It means you can start accelerating earlier;
What’s not really indicated here, but is an important benefit, is that it allows you to see, or “peek” around the corner better.
Another look at the later apex line
The gray line demonstrates the geometrically largest radius – the fastest way to drive through the corner in isolation – but as you can see, you spend practically all of the 300 feet cornering. Until you begin unwinding/straightening the steering wheel, you can’t start to accelerate.
By turning in and apexing later, it allows you to accelerate earlier, meaning you’ll be faster on the following straightaway. As the speed trace diagram shows, you will be a little slower at the beginning of the corner, but you’ll more than make up for it later in the corner and down the straightaway. This is why the late apex line is referred to as the “Ideal line.”
Different Corners, Different Lines
High-performance cornering is a series of compromises: You give up speed in one place to get more in another place.
THE BEST DRIVERS KNOW WHERE TO GO FAST, AND WHERE TO GIVE UP A LITTLE TO GAIN ELSEWHERE.
Speed in vs. Speed out
If you have a corner with very little straightaway after it, your focus should be on carrying as much speed into it, and not worry so much about exit speed.
Having said that, there are very few corners like this, so don’t get carried away with this!
Snaking around
Here’s how you would approach and drive a series of corners like Esses. The lesson here is that you’ll have to compromise at least one corner to maximize your exit out of the final corner. In other words, your priority should be how quickly you get out of the last corner.
Don’t Get Crabby
Here, we’re illustrating how NOT to do it.
This driver is “crabbing” into the corner, pulling the car away from the edge of the track before the Turn-in point, reducing the radius of the corner – meaning the car will not be able to carry as much speed through the corner.
What Not to Do
Here are three more errors illustrated to help you learn
from them.
Even the best driver makes mistakes, but it’s what you do with them that makes you a high-performance driver. First,the more references you have, the earlier you’ll recognize you’re making a mistake, and therefore be able to minimize the effect
of it. And then, it’s what you learn from it.
Think of mistakes as “learning takes.”
ERROR #1 - Turn-in too early
In the first illustration, the driver has turned in too early (before the Ideal Turn-in point), resulting in an early Apex. The driver would have to delay beginning to accelerate to avoid driving off the track.
ERROR #2 - Turn-in too late
In the second illustration, the driver has turned in too late, resulting in a super-late Apex. While safer than the previous mistake, the amount the driver would have to slow down for the very tight radius early in the corner would be impossible to make up for – the driver would be slow down the straightaway.
The key indicator here is the space between the car and the edge of the track at the Exit. Next lap, the driver should aim to turn in at the right point and clip the ideal Apex.
ERROR #3 - Turn-in too abrupt & Sharp
In the third illustration, the driver turned in at the right place – at the Turn-in point – but they turned too abruptly, too sharp, resulting in an early Apex. Ultimately, it ends up very similar to the first illustration – delayed acceleration to avoid running out of track at the Exit.
FINDING THE LINE
Here’s a comparison of two lines through a hairpin turn, one with a fairly Standard Late Turn-in and Apex on the left, and the one on the right with a more Exaggerated “Late Apex” Line.
Which is best? That depends on:
Track conditions
How the car handles
Car’s acceleration capabilities
If it were raining, the Exaggerated Late Apex might be better, providing a straighter line for acceleration. In contrast, if the car had little power, the momentum you could carry through the corner with the Standard line might be better.
EXPERIMENT WITH THE LINES THAT YOU DRIVE TO FIND THE IDEAL COMPROMISE.
Use All the Track
Not using all the track width is a big no-no.
Even just being 1 foot away from the edge of the track as you enter a corner can have a big negative impact — reducing the turn radius more than you might imagine.
Subtle Differences
The differences in the line you drive can be subtle, as this illustration demonstrates. The corner on the left is a slightly tighter radius than the one on the right, so it requires a later Turn-in and Apex line.
However, both of these illustrations are showing early Turn-ins – both would benefit from a later Turn-in and Apex to maximize straightaway speed.
YOU PAID TO USE THE TRACK — USE IT ALL!
Keep Reading...
View all our articles
Chapter 1 - Responsibility & Driver Safety
Chapter 2 - Technique
Chapter 3 - Vehicle Dynamics
Chapter 4 - Handling Characteristics & Cornering
Chapter 5 - The Performance Driver’s Mindset
Chapter 6 - Putting It All Together
Chapter 7 - Let’s Drive
Chapter 8 - The g-Force™ Family Control Manual